Edit: not relevant anymore. I was mistaken. BAUDRATE is defined, but it's in one of the included files, configuration.h. I searched for 'BAUDRATE', but since it's not in the main sketch it returned no results. I guess I should have looked at the rest of the inlcuded files first to see that BAUDRATE is set to 115200.
Richard uploaded the Sumpod firmware last night. I uploaded it to my Aruino Mega and tried to connect to it with RepSnapper, but I got nothing. I also tried a few other programs, also to no avail. I started looking through the firmware, and found that the Serial.begin() command referenced 'BAUDRATE', but it was not declared anywhere. After changing it to 19200 (RepSnapper's default baud rate) everything was working great. I don't have anything hooked up to the RAMPS board yet, so I can't test anything more, but the board does respond as it should.
Just for clarification, it is line 202 in the firmware.
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(BAUDRATE); <<<<<<------- This is the line that needs to be changed.
void setup()
{
Serial.begin(19200); <<<<<<-------- This is what it should be.
If this doesn't make sense or it should be something different, please let me know.
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Sumpod Adventures - Part 3
Now for the extruder and hotend. There are a couple issues with the extruder. The first is that there is no way to put the pulley on the motor, and the other is affixing the bowden tube fitting. For the motor, I drilled out the hole to 1/2" so that the pulley can be attached to the motor and then the motor mounted to the extruder. You can see in the pic below how the hole is now 1/2" all the way through. Before, it was only most of the way through and then had a small hole for the motor shaft. This provided no way of accessing the set screw as it is down in the hole. And the motor shaft is too short to mount the pulley the other way.
Also in this picture is the modification to the top for the bowden tube fitting. The fitting does not screw into the included M10 nut. I'm in the US, and found that I could use a 3/8-24 nut which has a smaller outer diameter, but the inner is about the same, and allows you to screw it in about 1 thread, just like the M10 nut. This means less modification to the extruder. I just carved out a little bit on each side (about 1/16" per side) until the nut fit with both halves together. I hope that the single thread is enough to hold it.
As for the hotend, this is where my parts differ from the instructions at http://renaissance-engineer.net The main issue here is that the nozzle is different, and no longer fits correctly. The nozzle that came with my kit is a single piece with the threads for the bowden tube fitting integrated with the nozzle. This means that the fitting is now about 1/2" taller, and it interferes with the screw that holds the heatsink to the X axis. To fix this, I drilled another hole in the small aluminum block that is closer to the edge, so that the bowden tube fitting is now beside the screw.
Also, the two screws that hold the small aluminum block to the heatsink won't work. The holes in the heatsink aren't tapped, and are larger that the screws. The screws also aren't long enough to go all the way through. So I got some longer screws and ran them all the way through to the other end of the fan. We'll see if this poses a problem with the heat melting the fan. I hope not :)
There was one more small issue, the holes in the aluminum block were not drilled perfectly straight, so the nozzle is slightly tilted. I hope it doesn't affect anything. If it does, I guess it's not a big deal to make a new one.
I've now got the machine mostly assembled, all that's left is the wiring. I'm hoping to get that done tonight and maybe test it out!
Also in this picture is the modification to the top for the bowden tube fitting. The fitting does not screw into the included M10 nut. I'm in the US, and found that I could use a 3/8-24 nut which has a smaller outer diameter, but the inner is about the same, and allows you to screw it in about 1 thread, just like the M10 nut. This means less modification to the extruder. I just carved out a little bit on each side (about 1/16" per side) until the nut fit with both halves together. I hope that the single thread is enough to hold it.As for the hotend, this is where my parts differ from the instructions at http://renaissance-engineer.net The main issue here is that the nozzle is different, and no longer fits correctly. The nozzle that came with my kit is a single piece with the threads for the bowden tube fitting integrated with the nozzle. This means that the fitting is now about 1/2" taller, and it interferes with the screw that holds the heatsink to the X axis. To fix this, I drilled another hole in the small aluminum block that is closer to the edge, so that the bowden tube fitting is now beside the screw.
Also, the two screws that hold the small aluminum block to the heatsink won't work. The holes in the heatsink aren't tapped, and are larger that the screws. The screws also aren't long enough to go all the way through. So I got some longer screws and ran them all the way through to the other end of the fan. We'll see if this poses a problem with the heat melting the fan. I hope not :)
There was one more small issue, the holes in the aluminum block were not drilled perfectly straight, so the nozzle is slightly tilted. I hope it doesn't affect anything. If it does, I guess it's not a big deal to make a new one.I've now got the machine mostly assembled, all that's left is the wiring. I'm hoping to get that done tonight and maybe test it out!
Sumpod Adventures - Part 2
I've now painted all the parts, and started assembly. It's definitely been an adventure. For those who don't know, spray painting MDF isn't fun. I went though an entire can of primer on two parts before I gave up and just brushed on some Kilz paint. After that dried, the spray paint worked great :)
I went with an orange and white color scheme. My wife calls it a creamsicle :) I only painted the outer pieces orange, and left the inside white as was suggested on the Sumpod forums. It should allow me to more easily see what's going on inside. It's also a matte finish on the inside, which I'm hoping will help with glare in videos.
I did learn an important lesson after painting. That is, I should have tested the fit on every piece before I painted them. There were quite a few places where there wasn't enough clearance and I had to sand to make parts fit. Luckily most of it is in places that aren't visible once assembled.
I went with an orange and white color scheme. My wife calls it a creamsicle :) I only painted the outer pieces orange, and left the inside white as was suggested on the Sumpod forums. It should allow me to more easily see what's going on inside. It's also a matte finish on the inside, which I'm hoping will help with glare in videos.I did learn an important lesson after painting. That is, I should have tested the fit on every piece before I painted them. There were quite a few places where there wasn't enough clearance and I had to sand to make parts fit. Luckily most of it is in places that aren't visible once assembled.
Sumpod Adventures - Part 1
So a few months ago I ordered a Sumpod 3D Printer. Due to numerous production issues, I received it last friday. I will try to show my progress here, and show any snags I run into. Hopefully it will help anyone who has similar issues. So now, on with the build!
The first thing I did was unpack and inspect all the parts, which is where the first issue came up. A few of the pieces had damaged corners, which isn't a big deal, but one part was damaged in a critical location. It's the top of the X axis. The end of it that holds the bearings for the belt is bent down, which would create a problem when trying to keep the belt aligned on the bearings and motor. And just for the record, Richard (creator of the Sumpod) did offer to send me a new part, however I figured I'd try my hand at fixing it first so he doesn't have to pay for shipping to the US.
I cut out a metal plate that would fit over the top and hopefully hold everything where it should be. This also presented some issues as the bolts were now too short. Also, the bolts for the bearings are underneath the top of the printer when assembled, and there is so little clearance that I had to use flat head bolts to avoid hitting the top of the printer. We'll see how it holds up when I get it all together.
For those of you who are building your Sumpods, a great place to start is http://renaissance-engineer.net There are downloadable PDFs with instructions. However, I noticed that his hotend is slightly different from mine, so I will document that as best I can.
The first thing I did was unpack and inspect all the parts, which is where the first issue came up. A few of the pieces had damaged corners, which isn't a big deal, but one part was damaged in a critical location. It's the top of the X axis. The end of it that holds the bearings for the belt is bent down, which would create a problem when trying to keep the belt aligned on the bearings and motor. And just for the record, Richard (creator of the Sumpod) did offer to send me a new part, however I figured I'd try my hand at fixing it first so he doesn't have to pay for shipping to the US.
I cut out a metal plate that would fit over the top and hopefully hold everything where it should be. This also presented some issues as the bolts were now too short. Also, the bolts for the bearings are underneath the top of the printer when assembled, and there is so little clearance that I had to use flat head bolts to avoid hitting the top of the printer. We'll see how it holds up when I get it all together.
Before:
After:
For those of you who are building your Sumpods, a great place to start is http://renaissance-engineer.net There are downloadable PDFs with instructions. However, I noticed that his hotend is slightly different from mine, so I will document that as best I can.
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